Panther Chameleon

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Panther Chameleon

Common Name: Panther Chameleon
Scientific Name: Furcifer pardalis
Lifespan: 4-8+ years
Size: 10-18 inches

Introduction:

The Panther Chameleon (Furcifer pardalis) is a species of chameleon native to Madagascar. The name “Panther Chameleon” comes from the Latin word pardalis, meaning “leopard” or “spotted like a panther”. Panther Chameleons are tree dwellers which make them perfect for naturalistic vivariums and bioactive terrariums.

Environment

Tropical

Light

UVB

Temperature

75-95°F

Humidity

70-75%

Most Active

Diumal

Lifespan

4-8 years

Size:

Panther Chameleons hatch out at approximately 3-4 inches in length. Adult males reach around 12-18 inches. Females are on the smaller side and are 8-10 inches when fully grown.

Lifespan:

In captivity, with proper care, male panther chameleons can live 6-8 years with females living slightly shorter lives of 4-6 years. The difference in lifespan is due to the female laying eggs, regardless of whether they mate or not, which takes a toll on their bodies.

Enclosure:

When designing your Panther Chameleon’s enclosure make sure to remember that they are native to tropical, humid regions but need high amounts of ventilation. All screen cages or two-sides screen, two-sides glass/acrylic are recommended. Adult males can be housed in 24”L x 24”W x 48”H, while females can be housed in 24”L x 24”W x 36”H tanks.

Temperature & Humidity:

Panther Chameleons do well in warmer climates and often need supplemental heating. During the day temperatures can reach 75-80 degrees with a 90-95 degree basking spot. Night temperatures can reach 70-75. Remember to always allow a temperature gradient so your gecko can choose the area most comfortable for themselves. 

Humidity should be kept around 50-80 percent and increased during shedding. Be sure to mist your chameleons cage 1-2 times a day or as needed to keep the proper humidity. Panther Chameleons tend to prefer to drink water from leaves that have been misted rather than a traditional water dish. However, make sure there is time for the cage to dry out to prevent mold or bacteria from building up. This is why having high ventilation in the cage is extremely important. 

Another great way to help control and maintain humidity during shedding and make your Panther Chameleon’s enclosure more natural is with Mosses. Golden Sphagnum Moss, Green Sphagnum Moss, Royal Pillow Moss, Sheet Moss, and Pillow Moss are all excellent at storing and maintaining humidity to ensure a clean, perfect shed.

Substrate:

Paper towels and terrarium liners are good substrate options for those that want something easy to change but be sure to keep a close eye on temperature and humidity as these options don’t hold up as well as other substrates. Cypress Mulch, Orchid/Fir Bark, Coconut Soil, and Coco Husk are great naturalistic substrate options that help maintain and control humidity. No matter what substrate you decide to use make sure to keep an eye on humidity as too much or too little can cause problems.

Hides:

Providing a safe hiding place for your panther chameleon is extremely important to the overall health of your reptile. Chameleons do not use traditional hides or caves like many other reptiles. Instead, they need large amounts of plants and foliage which can be accomplished with live or fake plants. The arboreal plants and foliage will allow them to retreat to a dark, safe place and will help reduce stress.

Lighting:

Panther Chameleons love to bask in the sun and, as such, require a full-spectrum UVB light. Make sure to check temperatures often as the added heat from a basking and UVB light may be higher than expected. Remember to only use lightning up to 12 hours a day as too much lighting can be stressful.

Feeding:

Panther Chameleons are insectivores, meaning they only eat insects. Crickets, dubia roaches, and superworms are the main staple of a healthy chameleon. Waxworms and hornworms can be fed on occasion as they are higher in fat. 

All feeder insects should be dusted with calcium and multivitamins, as well as gutloaded. Simply place the feeder insects and a small amount of powder into a plastic bag and shake lightly. Gut loading refers to feeding the insects nutritious food, generally powder or gel, for at least 12 hours before feeding.

Water:

Although Panther Chameleons primarily drink from water that has pooled on leaves from misting, always provide fresh, clean water just in case.

Decor:

After the necessities, Panther Chameleon enclosures can have any variety of decor that help to add enrichment. Spider Wood, Manzanita, and Driftwood are popular climbing implements that provide a different texture and aid in shedding. Natural Stones and Mosses are also a great addition for general stimulation and enrichment with the added benefit of a naturalistic look.

Interesting Facts:

  • The genus chameleons belong to, Furcifer, is derived from the Latin root furci meaning “forked” and refers to the animal’s feet. 
  • Panther Chameleons were first imported in the 1980s and many were wild caught. Luckily, with better husbandry and an increase in chameleon breeders, many panther chameleons available today are captive bred and born. 
  • Panther Chameleons display sexual dimorphism with males being 30-50% larger and are much brighter in color than their female counterparts. 
  • Contrary to popular belief, chameleons cannot change their colors to match any background. Chameleon colors are based on their locales and bloodlines. These locales dictate their colors, patterns, and body structure. 
  • The two most popular locales are Nosy Be and Ambilobe. Nosy Be locales do not have as much pattern but are incredibly bright with a variety of blues, greens and a small amount of red. Ambilobe locales’ colors center around reds and greens with a splash of orange or yellow. Ambilobes also have bright red faces, underbellies, and arms.